Matsuyama Unhurried

Travel by train from Osaka via Okayama before crossing the spectacular Seto Ohashi Bridge. Look out across a landscape of islands scattered through calm blue water before continuing through rural Shikoku towards Ehime.

Choose between staying in central Matsuyama, close to restaurants, shopping and the castle, or make Dogo Onsen your base for three nights and experience the atmosphere of Japan's oldest hot spring district each morning and evening.

Spend the afternoon exploring Matsuyama Castle, dramatically positioned on Mount Katsuyama above the city. Rather than a modern reconstruction, it is one of just 12 original castle keeps remaining in Japan. Ride the ropeway or open-air chairlift towards the summit, then continue on foot through the grounds before stepping inside the historic wooden keep. From the top, the reward is a sweeping view across Matsuyama towards the islands of the Seto Inland Sea.

Back below, wander through Ropeway Street and Okaido, stopping for coffee, local sweets or dinner as the city moves into evening.

Dogo Onsen is one of Japan's oldest and most famous hot spring districts, known for its historic bathhouses and lively streets lined with shops, cafés and traditional ryokan. It's the perfect place to slow down, soak in the healing waters and experience the traditions of Japanese onsen culture.

At its heart is the magnificent Dogo Onsen Honkan. The current wooden bathhouse dates from 1894 and has become one of Matsuyama's most recognisable landmarks — one of three public onsen to choose from. The second is Asuka-no-Yu, where a 90-minute experience includes yukata rental, a hot spring bath and time relaxing in a tatami room with tea and sweets. For a more local feel, Tsubaki-no-Yu offers a glimpse of everyday neighbourhood bathing culture.

Between baths, explore the covered Dogo shopping arcade and sample some of Ehime's best-known flavours. Try Matsuyama's colourful Botchan Dango, discover just how many ways Ehime can celebrate its famous citrus, or stop for a locally brewed Dogo Beer. Watch the Botchan Karakuri Clock spring into life, soak your feet in one of the free footbaths, or walk uphill to the Dogo Onsen Sky Walkway, where another footbath comes with views across the rooftops below.

For a deeper introduction, join a private tour of Dogo Onsen and discover the stories, architecture and traditions behind this extraordinary place, including areas of the historic bathhouse normally closed to the public. Then, as evening arrives, do what generations of visitors have done before you — head back to the hot springs for another soak.

The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage has drawn pilgrims around the island for centuries, following a route associated with the Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi. Even today, pilgrims can be spotted travelling through Ehime in their distinctive white clothing, woven hats and wooden staffs.

In Matsuyama you can easily experience a small part of this centuries-old trail. From Dogo Onsen it's around a 15-minute walk to Ishite-ji, Temple 51 of the pilgrimage. Pass through the temple's imposing gate to discover historic buildings, a three-storey pagoda and one of Ishite-ji's most intriguing features — its cave tunnel. Step into the narrow, dimly lit passage, where stone carvings, small statues of Kobo Daishi and votive offerings line the way. The journey through the darkness is symbolic of reflection and renewal before you emerge back into daylight.

The story behind the name adds another layer. Meaning "Stone Hand Temple", Ishite-ji is linked to the legend of Emon Saburo, a wealthy man who set out around Shikoku in search of Kobo Daishi to seek forgiveness and is regarded as the pilgrimage's first pilgrim. Legend says he was later reborn in Ehime as a baby clutching a small stone in his hand. The temple also offers its own miniature pilgrimage: where osuna-fumi elsewhere means walking over sacred soil from all 88 temples, Ishite-ji has an osuna-nade tradition, touching each of the 88 representations in turn.

Spend the rest of the afternoon following your interests — explore more of Matsuyama, visit the Ehime Museum of Art, or discover the striking Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum, designed by architect Tadao Ando. On the walk back towards Dogo, stop at Isaniwa Shrine, perched above the neighbourhood at the top of a dramatic flight of stone steps. Or simply return to Dogo early — when you're staying in one of Japan's great onsen towns, there's always time for another bath.

For your final morning, swap city streets for a tiny slice of island life. Take the local train to Takahama Port (20 mins) and board the short ferry (15 mins) across to Gogoshima Island.

Hire a bicycle or e-bike and follow quiet coastal roads past small fishing villages, beaches, citrus orchards and views across the Seto Inland Sea. Choose a gentle ride along the coast or explore further into the island.

Return by ferry to Matsuyama and continue onwards to Hiroshima, Takamatsu or Osaka.